We’re sitting on the sunny stoep of SeaBreeze Fish & Shell in the balmy African sunshine chatting with the Chef Patron and Co-Founder of the restaurant, Alex Grahame.
It’s been 7 years since Alex along with co-owner and wife Ruth opened SeaBreeze Fish & Shell and we’re here to delve into his history, inspiration, journey and all things fish and shell.
Tell us about your background as a chef?
“Finding myself in Montpellier, France, on a government initiative at age 15, my culinary initiation was not a glamorous one. As with all great cooks, I began as a plongeur, with my hands in the dishwash sink, scrubbing pots and pans, but I also did all the prep work: peeling spuds, turning carrots and cleaning mussels. Fortunately, tasting sauces and plating the odd dish at the pass was something my Head Chef allowed me to be involved in. Everything was made from scratch with fresh ingredients, and only the best was good enough.
“When I returned to London, two years later, I was employed by Bulloch’s Restaurant at The Athenaeum Hotel – a five star establishment in London’s Mayfair, under the mentorship of renowned Head Chef, David Mitchell and Restaurant Manager, Julian Keirle. International celebrities were welcomed regularly, including Al Pacino, Russell Crowe, Sandra Bulloch, Take That and too many more to mention.
“For several years I worked in the media industry but Ruth and I longed for a business we could run ourselves which took us back into hospitality.
“We opened our first successful seafood restaurant, Hornblower’s – close to her home of Aberdeen in Scotland where we welcomed everyone from fishermen, farmers and footballers! Happy times with glorious views from our restaurant out to the North Sea. It was also during this time that I won the Cullen Skink World Championships, a big honour in the North East of Scotland.
“A few years later, I ran the main restaurant at Balmoral Castle Estate as Head Chef, one of the Royal Family’s homes in Scotland, and yes, I met Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth, cooked a family dinner for Prince Edward, catered a Royal Garden Party and had my menu signed off by King Charles. It was a wholly wonderful time with amazing memories.
“Today, running SeaBreeze Fish & Shell, I hold the same values that have defined my career: respect for ingredients, a commitment to sustainability and a love for showcasing the best of what the ocean has to offer.”
How would you describe your culinary style and what are the defining features of your cooking?
“I love all things seafood: shellfish, crustaceans, bivalves, all fish, and sea vegetables. My approach is to let the produce speak for itself by choosing quality, preparing carefully, and cooking accurately. Simplicity and precision are key to creating memorable dishes.”
What or who inspires you as a chef?
“In the UK, I’ve always admired the panache of Marco Pierre White and the honesty of the produce showcased by Rick Stein. Locally in Cape Town, I respect the humility and refined cooking of Liam Tomlin, the constant invention and imagination of Rikku O’Donnchu and the nous and hospitality vibe that Matt Manning creates.”
What are your favourite ingredients to work with, particularly when it comes to seafood?
“Seasonality is crucial – even seafood has its seasons. I stay in daily contact with our suppliers to know what’s fresh and available. For example, we love cooking fresh squid, but its season in The Cape is very short – only a few weeks a year. While there’s an expectation for squid on every seafood menu, we’ll never compromise by shipping in frozen calamari from overseas.”
Are there any signature dishes at SeaBreeze that reflect your personal touch?
“Our Hake Ceviche is a must-try. It’s about taking a humble ingredient like line caught hake and letting it be the star of the dish. That’s the essence of what we do – honouring the produce.”
How do you source ingredients, especially seafood, for the menu? Is sustainability an important factor in your choices?
“It’s not just important, it’s absolutely vital. If we take too much from the sea now, we can never give it back. That’s why we strictly follow the SASSI guidelines for sustainable fish sourcing.
“Never heard of SASSI? The SASSI list categorises fish as green, orange or red depending on sustainability. We never sell red-listed fish, use orange only ever sparingly – and when we know and trust the fisher people – and always prioritise green-listed options. Also, the fish we serve must be caught fresh in African waters.”
How do you see the culinary scene evolving in Cape Town and how does SeaBreeze fit into that landscape?
“Cape Town is a melting pot of culinary styles and cultures – it’s the best food city in the world, in my opinion. A new restaurant seems to open daily, which drives innovation. We’ve been here for seven years, and I believe that’s a testament to our ability to blend local influences with international techniques while staying true to our seafood ethos.”
What dish would you cook for yourself on a day off?
“I’d fire up the braai, throw on some fresh tuna steaks, and enjoy them with a cold glass of Nitida Sauvignon Blanc. Simple and satisfying!”
Visit us at SeaBreeze Fish & Shell and experience local South African seafood for yourself…